Big Island, Big Energy

With the recent tsunami we are reminded once again that we live in an unpredictable place ruled by nature.  We have heard it said more than once that “Pele will test you”, when you live here.  Tsunamis may come, earthquakes can happen, strange storms blow through, the volcano erupts and burps vog, and the ocean can shift from smooth bathtub to churning froth in a day.  Do residents fear these things?  No.  Should visitors?  No.  The magic of this place IS the energy that abounds.
For many visitors, the Big Island is a place of transition.  We’ve had guests come here for many reasons: for honeymoons and anniversaries and baby moons and weddings, but also to relax, be still, and heal.  When you’re standing at the cliffs at Pu’uhonua staring down into the clear water, or floating on your back at Manini at sunset, or simply watching the ocean shift through the day from our lanai, it is easy to once again feel small but significant.  You watch the big sky shift in the volcano or feel the wind rush through at South Point or hear the surf pound relentlessly at Punalu’u and you can’t help but be reminded of your connection to something greater than yourself.  For some, this is an inspirational/life-changing/affirming/peaceful feeling, for others, it’s disturbing.
There seems to be a love/hate relationship with the Big Island.  Some visitors are heart-broken when they have to leave, already planning their next trip.  Others seem disappointed in the island and its vast spaces and big energy and unpredictable weather.  I had a guest admit to me today that her vision of Hawaii had been Waikiki.  She spent time in Honolulu and didn’t like it, and had figured all Hawaii was this way.  For her, the Big Island has been eye-opening and marvelous, but for other guests, it seems to be jarring and overwhelming.  As I mentioned in my entry about guests being set on seeing live lava flowing after looking at all the tourist literature, having a check-list mentality here can lead to disappointment.  The Big Island is not for everyone.  For visitors to the islands who dream of shopping in Waikiki, or relaxing in a controlled environment, then staying at a resort, or remaining in Honolulu is probably the best fit.  For guests who are entranced by the idea of so much wildness, who like the idea of silence and being alone and of exploring off-the-beaten-path, the Big Island will most likely be one of the most remarkable places they’ll ever visit.

Kayaking Kealakekua Bay

One of the most popular South Kona tourist activities is kayaking across Kealakekua Bay to the Captain Cook monument.  The bay is an absolutely beautiful place to snorkel and swim.  It is a marine life sanctuary and boasts some of the clearest water and healthiest reef in Hawaii.  Unfortunately, this pristine environment has started to show signs of wear and destruction due to rampant and uncontrolled use.  

This brings up a question that continuously haunts the State: how to encourage responsible tourism whilst protecting our precious environment.  For years the plan to control kayaking across the bay has been discussed.  Kayaking – like snorkeling - can be damaging to the reef because inexperienced visitors touch/step on/drag boats across the reef, killing the coral.  Finally, the talk has turned into action and as of February 23, 2010, kayaking will only be allowed with a permit in Kealakekua Bay.  This is a wise move by the State and will ensure the reef has time to heal.  Visitors shouldn’t be discouraged by this.  It will be safer and more fun to go as part of a small guided tour, anyway.  This is a historical area and there’s loads of information that would be missed going it alone.  Here are the details:

Permit applications are available online at:

http://hawaiistateparks.org/documents/hsp_kaawaloa_vessel_landing_permit1.pdf

Completed applications can be emailed to: dean.h.takebayashi@hawaii.gov

Faxed to: 808.974.6222

Information line: 808.974.6206

 

Volcano Notes

Since we’re on the subject of Kilauea (January was Volcano Awareness Month), I thought it’d be a good time to share some additional information about visiting Volcanoes National Park.

First, the Park is beautifully laid out for visitors and booking a guided tour to experience it isn’t necessary.  (However, if you happen to be there when a ranger offers a guided walking tour, please take advantage of this.  Our guests that have been lucky enough to happen upon one of these have appreciated the naturalist/geologist-guide’s insight.)  There are two main roads that pass through the Park: Crater Rim Drive (which circles the main crater), and Chain of Craters Road, which runs down to the water.  The tour buses stick to these two main roads, so all the small hikes/walks/viewing spots set just off these main roads are clearly marked and easily accessible. 

However, if you would like to participate in a tour, here are a few that our guests have tried and enjoyed: 

By Boat: www.lavaocean.com

By Bike: www.bikevolcano.com

Private walking/hiking tours: www.hawaii.volcanodiscovery.com, www.bigislandoutfitters.com, www.hawaiiforestandtrail.com

The Park is always open; you can go at any time.  We do suggest, however, (if it is a concern) that visitors check the Park website to determine if any parts of the main roads are closed due to volcanic emissions (this is a safety precaution) before they head out, or to find out specifically where live lava can be viewed (if this is something they want to do).  It is also important to be prepared with the proper attire as the weather in the Park is notoriously changeable.  Please bring good walking/light hiking shoes, and an extra layer in case of rain.  For serious hikes outside the park and/or lava viewing, hiking boots, water, flash lights, and rain gear are necessary. 

Our favorite small hike within the Park itself (there are several extended, serious desert hikes outside of the main park which need to be properly prepared for) is Kilauea Iki (little Kilauea).  The trailhead is located right of Crater Rim Drive.  We like this hike because although it’s short and not difficult (it took us just a couple of hours total) you get to see four distinct volcano environments in one relatively small area.  You pass through one kind of rainforest and exit through another (which means you get to see beautiful plants and hear lovely birdcall).  And as you cross the crater you get to see several different types of lava.  The day we were there it was sunny, hot, and clear and the olivine deposits in the rough lava (a’a) shone like green diamonds in the sun.  Native hawks circled overhead and way down in the crater there was no sound but wind.  It was one of the loveliest short hikes we’ve enjoyed on the island.

Sometimes the question about vog, or volcanic smog, arises.  Sometimes the smog is so thick in Volcano town or in the Park itself that it is visible and accompanied by a strong sulfur smell.  If emissions within a portion of the Park (normally near Halema’uma’u crater where Pele is believed to dwell) are considered too high to be safe (emissions are constantly monitored) then that part of the road is closed temporarily.  If a guest has a preexisting condition that makes them sensitive to respiratory irritants, they should take appropriate precautions (don’t get too close to the plume, carry your inhaler if you’re an asthmatic, etc.).  However, vog should not be a worry for most guests.  I can speak to this personally because I have asthma.  It took two months after moving here for me to see that I had an allergy to the vog, so guests who are here for a regular visit of a week or so will most likely feel nothing.  My symptoms are completely controlled on medication and, although I carry my inhaler with me when we visit the Park, I’ve never had a problem.  As far as vog traveling around the island, it's completely dependent upon the winds.  Trade Winds blowing across the island can push it up to Kailua or even as far north as Oahu.  The Kona Winds blowing down here push it back the other way and keep our little spot down here near the water nice and clear.

Lastly, it must be said that while Volcanoes National Park is a major draw for visitors, if it doesn’t sound interesting to you, that’s okay!  We’ve had some guests who fall in love with the Volcano, some who drive through it in a day and are done, and some who have no interest in it at all.  It’s perfectly fine not to go if you don’t want to.  We’re not big proponents of “check list” traveling.  Just relax and do what you feel like doing – it’s your vacation.

 

Island Expectations

A few weeks ago, I was talking with two guests at breakfast about their visit to Volcanoes National Park the day before.  They’d been in the visitor information center and had overheard one of the rangers patiently describing the layout of the park and all its sights to a visitor.  The visitor suddenly cut the ranger off midstream and yelled, “Just tell me where the goddamn lava is!”.

At first, this sort of outburst seems insane.  We scratch our heads in confusion.  We think they’re kidding, or that we’re all being taped.  Then, when we realize they’re dead-serious, we want to shake these people by the shoulders and say, “how can you be so unhappy in such a beautiful place?”, “what’s the matter with you!” (Or something less polite.)   Unfortunately, this is not the first time I’ve heard – or heard of – such a sentiment.  We once had a guest check in during a rainstorm and get so wildly upset over the weather he drove off, returned to the airport, and caught the next plane home (it was sunny the next day). 

Certainly these visitors returned home feeling let-down by the island.  It seems a total waste – of vacation, of time, of money, of potential for great discovery, experience, and pleasure.  After much thought, I’ve come to realize that this sort of disappointing travel experience has to do with unrealistic expectations.

But it’s not entirely the visitor’s fault.  Tourist information can be misleading.  We recently were walking around downtown Kailua and picked up a tourist magazine and were startled to see not one, not two, but several articles describing dolphin encounters.  So it’s no wonder visitors come here expecting - and sometimes demanding - to see dolphins.  Alongside photos of snorkelers swimming with dolphins were photos of breaching humpbacks and spewing fountains of lava.  Looking at this, it could be hard not to build up a lofty fantasy, and perhaps, a sense of entitlement.  Based on these types of photos, all Hawaii should look like Waikiki, the sun should shine every day, whales should be breaching, dolphins and turtles should approach when snorkeling, the lava should be gushing forth, the ocean should be calm and safe, there shouldn’t be any bugs or rain or vog.  With such high expectations, it would be almost impossible not to be disappointed.  The Big Island is stunningly beautiful, and it is beautiful because it’s filled with wild, unspoiled, inherently unpredictable nature.  Visitors need to keep this in mind.

For instance, lava viewing can be tricky.  The flows shift and change and you have to know specifically where to go to see it.  We always advise guests to check the park website before going if they’re intent on seeing live lava, and talking with a ranger once in the park.  It may not be visible.  Or, you may have to hike out of the park (which was the case most of last year).  If you plan on hiking outside of park boundaries you must be prepared with the appropriate gear.  Also, you don’t want to BE that close to live lava anyway.  All those really gorgeous close-up photos you see of molten lava are taken by professional photographers with huge lenses a significant distance away, while wearing special protective gear (if you got too close you’d be vaporized). 

In short, it’s important to be realistic and understand that Kilauea – like the ocean and the weather – is unpredictable and changeable.  This is not a controlled environment, and it can be hard to accept this coming from an environment far-removed from nature.  But this is where the magic lies.  The Island feels so incredibly alive: trembling, brimming, spilling over with life.  In Volcanoes National Park if you don’t see lava, don’t be disappointed, because live lava is just one piece of what’s going on there.  Look at the tiny ferns and skeletal ohia trees with their vibrant flowers growing – yes, growing! – out of the frozen, barren-seeming lava fields.  Check out the way the lava froze as it cooled, making rivulets and holes and eerie colors.  Look for the olivine deposits that glint in the sun like diamonds, carefully feel the steam rising up from under rocks in Kilauea Iki, listen to the native birdsong in the rainforest, feel the ocean pound up under the rocks down at the bottom of Chain of Craters Road, listen to the lonely wind call across the desert at the petroglyph trail.  How many other places are there where land is being simultaneously destroyed and created each day?  Kilauea is a sacred place and many of our guests feel very moved there, as if they are closer to something greater than themselves temporarily, closer to nature, to God, to something mighty and beautiful, at once ancient and brand-new.  If you’re hurriedly running after a particular goal, chances are you’ll miss this.

We would definitely recommend seeing the Volcano.  Take your time, stop at the information station, see if there will be any ranger-lead nature walks that day that you could join, or any hula or art exhibits going on.  Walk through the Thurston lava tube, walk Devastation Trail, Kilauea Iki, and perhaps the Petroglyph trail.  Slowly drive down Chain of Craters road and stop at the bottom and walk along the shore.  Listen to the pounding waves, maybe walk along the rocks or lie down on them and watch the dramatic sky shift color.  It IS a powerful place.  Take your time, and let it in.

 

Packing lists and microclimates

Speaking of both microclimates AND planning for a trip to the Big Island, I thought it might be helpful to provide readers with a version of our “packing list”.  As noted in my other blog, we both feel it’s important not to plan activities too tightly, but it is important to know something about the island in advance, especially because of it’s microclimates.  It may sound nuts, but we usually like to leave the following in our car at all times: swimsuits, towels, sun block, light hiking shoes, sweatshirts, and jackets.

Another point to keep in mind is that the Big Island still retains much wilderness and wildness.  Depending on what and how you wish to explore, you’ll want to plan accordingly.  For example, the small walks and hikes directly off the two main roads within Volcanoes National Park only require comfortable walking shoes and an extra layer (in case of rain), but serious hikes out of the park boundary require closed-toed shoes, rain gear, and flashlights.  You’ll also want a warm layer if you go up Mauna Kea, which is covered in snow part of the year and sports freezing winds much of the rest of the time.  If you walk from South Point out to the Green Sand Beach or down into Pololu Valley, you’ll need your walking shoes/light hikers again.  The issue here, like at most secluded island locations, is the rocky footing which is unkind to flip-flops and definitely requires shoes with some support.

Some of our guests also like to bring rash guards or half wetsuits for snorkeling.  A rash guard or half wetsuit/wetsuit top may be something you want if you are here in the winter when the current shifts and the water is a little cooler and you plan and spending loads of time out in the water.  I am quite small and have a tendency to cool down if I space out snorkeling and spend more than an hour or so out there.  These items aren’t necessary, but they can also protect you against sunburn.  

Besides these considerations the rest of the island is pretty easy and it’s totally possible to pack light.  This is probably one of the most relaxed islands and the general uniform for guys is t-shirt, shorts, and flip-flops, and for girls is t-shirt or camisole, shorts, and flip-flops.  The last “dressy” event we went to was a funeral and even there none of the men had on aloha shirts (the dressy-dress of the islands), just tees.

What's the weather really like?

Last night we had our first really hard rain in months.  Although rain is in the forecast again today, it is perfectly sunny and clear down here at the Inn right now.  The ocean looks bright blue, the water is calm, and you can see for miles. 

This brings up an interesting and un-answerable question: What’s the weather like in Hawaii?  Of course we get asked this all the time, and we try to answer as best as possible, but it’s tricky.  For one, it really depends on where you are on the island.  To start, each island has both a windward (east) and leeward (west) side.  The windward sides are always wetter, the leeward, drier.  For example, on the Big Island, Hilo is the biggest town on the east side, known for its surrounding waterfalls and jungle and botanical gardens, but is also the rainiest city in the US (hence all the lush greenery).  It is generally hit first and hardest by storms, and experiences rain almost daily.  The Kona-side of this island is dry and sunny year-round, with occasional rains (hence the calm water, abundance of plumeria and bougainvillea, mangoes and citrus).  A guest mentioned to me today that there’s a storm-warning on for Mauna Kea and Kilauea, and that there may be flooding in Hilo.  This is certainly possible, but you wouldn’t know it looking outside here.  Elevation also has an impact on weather patterns.  Generally the higher you go the cooler and wetter it gets.  For example, I have a hula sister who lives on the same road as us, but a little higher up, and I just overheard her in class discussing her battles with mildew in the closets (a common issue on the island).    This isn’t an issue down here where we are, because it’s so much drier, even though we’re just a couple of miles away.  Sometimes I’ll be driving up our road to go to the store, or out Middle Keei Road or Painted Church Road to see a friend, and the road will be wet with rain, while it was bone-dry down at the Inn.

Although all the travel books mention the Big Island’s micro-climates, it can be very hard to fathom these sudden changes until you get here.  Here are a couple of other examples: the other day I drove up to Choice Mart, our local supermarket.  When I left the Inn it was sunny and hot down here, but by the time I got up our road a couple of miles, I’d entered a cool, rainy mist.  I shut off the AC and removed my sunglasses.  By the time I reached the highway the sky was leaden, and when I got to Choice Mart (less than one mile down the highway), big drops of rain were falling and ominous black clouds were amassing up mauka (up in the hills).  As I headed home I left the dark sky and mist and once I was home it was sunny and hot just as I’d left it.  The rain was visible way up on the hillside, but never made its way down.  We’ve needed rain over the last few weeks and I was a little sad the mist just hovered up mauka, taunting us.  One time we took our Miata for a spin around the island.  We had the AC going in the Kau Desert where the sun was blazing, the top pulled closed and the heater on in Volcano, the top open (because it was muggy) in Hilo and up the Hamakua Coast where the mist flew over us as we drove, then the top back up and the heater on in Waimea where a cold wind was blowing.  By the time we followed the highway down the hills in Waimea the AC was on again because the sun was burning brightly, and we left it on through Kona. 

This crazy-seeming weather actually generally reflects the variety of microclimates on the island, but of course things do shift and change.  It can be sunny in Hilo, it can pour in Kona.  There are two seasons in Hawaii: the wet season (late spring-early fall) and the dry season (late fall-early spring).  For us, this generally means a nice shower in the late afternoon/evening during the wet season, with bright sun the rest of the time.  But this year, we had a very dry summer and are already facing drought.  Generally there is a drought here in South Kona in the winter-months.  More storms also blow across the island during winter months, so although we may have a sunny, dry day, we may hear a tropical downpour for a few minutes after dark (like last night).

This brings us to another common question: when is the off-season in Hawaii?  The real answer to this is that there isn’t one.  Hawaii’s always nice.  The “off season” reflects the off-season on the mainland, regardless of the weather here: the summer months are generally slower because it is nice on the mainland, the winter months are usually jam-packed (December and January being the peak months) because so much of the mainland is experiencing bad winter weather.  June and September are notoriously slow since those are school-transition months for mainland families, and November is historically quite slow since most mainland travelers wait until Christmas or New Years for their long-holiday/vacation

The way we look at it is that there’s nice weather, and then there’s spectacular weather, with some anomalous days here and there (a wet day, a voggy-day, for example).  In other words, it’s pretty perfect most days.  We don’t have much variation in temperature, rainfall, or length of day down here in our little ocean micro-climate.  A tropical rain may blow in from the ocean one night, an ominous mist may hover up mauka, a rain shower may happen four miles away, you just never know.  So that’s why we can’t answer the “what’s the weather like” question, because it depends completely on where you are.  It’s said on the Big Island that if you don’t like the weather, just drive for an hour and you’ll be somewhere completely different, and it’s true!

 

Training on the Big Island

Iron Man was last weekend.  The race took place on Saturday, October 10th (it's always the second Saturday in October) and as always drew lots of visitors and excitement to Kona.  (For race winners and details, please visit the official Iron Man website: http://ironman.com/worldchampionship).  The weeks leading up to the race are always exciting.  Athletes come from all over the world to train here and acclimate to the weather before the race, and visitors pour in to volunteer, watch the race, and cheer the triathletes on.  We've had both athletes and volunteers stay with us here at the Inn and their energy is always contagious.

In the spirit of Iron Man, I thought it'd be interesting to post the experiences of an athlete training on the island.  Although my dad isn't a thriathlete, he is a world record-holding masters swimmer and spent the summer here training in the Bay.  He took part in several local swims, including the Alii Challenge and the race to Honaunau, as well as the Waikiki Roughwater Swim on Oahu.  Here's an excerpt from his summer journal:

All around me there is nothing but warm, clear, blue water.  I am one hour into the 10K Alii Challenge open water swim from Keauhou Bay north to the Alii Pier in Kailua-Kona.  I should be feeling good right now but I am suffering a bit and the blood sugar appears to be gone.  This is not good because almost an hour and a half remain in the race.  Roberta, my escort paddler, carries some food and drink so I "pull over" and try to replace the spent nutrients and then off we go.

The plans for this race started in June when we arrived at the Luana Inn for an extended summer of swimming in the beautiful waters around the big island of Hawaii.  The Luana Inn is perched less than a mile above the fabled Kealakekua Bay where Captain James Cook met his demise in 1797.  The inn is the perfect launching point for the open water swimmer.  Kealakekua Bay is a breathtakingly beautiful crescent about 1.2 miles across.  On the south side is Manini Beach and on the North side is the Captain Cook Monument.  

Most of our training swims began at Manini Beach and followed the perimeter of the bay to the monument.  The visual feast was fantastic.  Tropical fish of fantastic colors, coral formations of surreal shapes and sizes, sea turtles, rays and the ultimate treat, populate the bay: dolphins.  The spinner dolphins often come to the bay to rest and on occasion will "join" the open water swimmers.  I think they find our pathetic efforts comical so we provide a source of entertainment for them.  For us seeing the dolphins is electrifying and we redoubled our efforts to swim well and swim fast but most of all we try to just enjoy the moment while we are suspended in that beautiful blue medium from which all life on this planet emerged.

My swimming friends and I were preparing for a series of open water races.  July 5th the Hapuna Swim a one mile race at Hapuna Beach north of Kona, July 11th the King's Swim a 1.2 mile race on the Iron Man course by Alii Pier in Kailua-Kona, August 16th the Alii Challenge a 10K race from Keauhou to the Alii Pier, and finally on Labor Day, September 7th, the 2.4 mile Waikiki Rough Water swim.

The races were wonderful and well organized but the key to the summer of swimming was all the training swims in Kealakekua Bay.  Our swims were mostly about 4 kilometers in length; however, before the 10K Alii Challenge we did do a few 6K and 8K swims.  After each swim we would hang out at Manini Beach and talk, eat, and plan the next swim.  During the summer, I estimate we swam about 250 kilometers.

Back to the Alii Challenge.  I am now about 90 minutes in the race and am still suffering a bit but we have a following sea and the King Kamehameha Hotel is starting to emerge on the horizon.  At about the two-hour mark we can see the pier and then finally 2 hours and eighteen minutes after the start I am on the beach.

 I will be back next year to do it again!