Storm Season

On Friday we had a fantastic storm.  It was my maid-service day (we alternate breakfast and maid service duties daily) so I took the boys out for a morning walk as usual.  At eight am it was already dark and balmy.  A warm wind whistled through the house and a soft rain began to fall.  There was an unusual quiet in the air: no birds, no insects, no ocean wind: an ominous sign of something moving towards us from the ocean. 

I absolutely love this weather.  I love the crazy winds, alternately warm and cold, the unusual cloud formations out over the ocean, the dark and cool.  It feels good to be cold, it feels cuddly to throw on a sweatshirt midday as the sky darkens.  We get so much sunshine (I know, poor us…) that a big rain or storm is a treat.

I took the boys out on our walk and watched clouds race across the sky, the morning sun shine enthusiastically, then quickly be swallowed by aggressive-looking storm clouds.  Huge sloppy warm rain drops fell now and then, as if the rain was warming up for a heavy fall – which indeed it was.  The uppermost branches of the breadfruit trees along the road swayed in the wind, their distinctive shape showing crisp and clean against the dark sky.  The eerie darkness that always resides under the thick old mac-nut trees was even darker than usual, a different perfume road the winds.

As soon as we returned home the rain began to fall in earnest.  It fell throughout the rest of the day, increasing and decreasing in tempo as the storm progressed.  The wind shifted from balmy to downright cold and darkness filled the house by noon.  We bundled up the boys and ate hot soup for lunch, enjoying a cold, dark winter day for once. 

The storm lashed the house and grounds through the night, but had moved on by daybreak the next day.  Our normal, sunny-bright weather had returned and the day was perfect: filled with sun and birdsong and our normal gentle ocean breezes.  The storm had cleaned the air and earth and the ocean was a pristine-blue, the horizon a hard, sharp line.  The sunset last night was fantastic, culminating in a burst of bright yellows, pinks, and blues burning clearly against the fresh sky. 

Summer is hurricane season in Hawaii, winter is thunderstorm season.  Kealakekua Bay is on the protected side of the Big Island in a generally very temperate location.  Storms blow down from Kauai, hitting that island first, or up and across from the windward side of the Big Island, hitting Hilo first. We don’t have to worry too much about being hit hard by storms.  Instead, we can enjoy them.

Autumn is here

There are really only two seasons in Hawaii, a wet season and a dry season.  The wet season generally includes spring and summer, and the dry includes fall and winter.  Of course there are variations depending on where in the state you are.  For us, down here by the water in South Kona, the transition from wet to dry is accompanied by many familiar shifts. 

We’ve been smelling coffee roasting next door at the big mill, and the fragrant smoke from the macadamia nut hulls that are burned to roast the beans.  It is a familiar, beautiful scent that reminds us coffee processing season has arrived.  The days are hotter and dryer, the ocean gets rougher, and the Trade winds pick up.  The red cardinals move down from the hills, and the citrus trees and some varieties of avocado begin to blossom.  Beautiful athletes descend upon Kailua to acclimate before the Iron Man triathlon.  Crowds amass and excitement crescendos as the race day draws near.

There will be a slight dip in tourism in November around Thanksgiving time, when many mainland people travel to family homes rather than to Hawaii, crowds are down and ticket prices drop temporarily to reflect this.  The days are hot and clear and bright, and the gentle rains that arrived so diligently each evening over the summer will subside.  We may be gifted with a thunder storm now and again, and watch with excitement as dark tropical clouds rush ominously over the ocean.  The ocean water will be colder, the whales will come.  It is a beautiful time of year, but then, it is always beautiful here.

The art of doing nothing

I was recently watching the second Sex and the City movie and a comment Miranda made stayed with me.  Their first morning in Abu Dhabi, Miranda announces at breakfast something to the effect that, due to her type-A, controlling, over-organized personality she’s scheduled a complete day of fun.  (Incidentally, their day does look pretty interesting, involving camel-back riding, lunch in the desert, and karaoke that night.)  But what struck me is the oxymoronic “planned fun”. 

Now of course when it comes to travel lots of planning IS involved.  It would be a waste of time, for instance, not to book a room Christmas week in Hawaii and then have to spend one of your precious vacation days driving around trying desperately to find a place to stay the night (this happens more frequently than you’d think).  Or, to travel to say, Abu Dhabi, and strut down the middle of the public market with revealing clothing (as Samantha does) because you didn’t do your homework and understand this to be highly disrespectful.  It’s important to crack a map open and get a feel for where you’re going, understand something about the local culture, weather, and sites, etc. 

This said, it’s also important to allow yourself the freedom to relax and have some unstructured/unorganized/unplanned time – especially in a place like Hawaii, which is so incredibly laid-back.   It’s hard to accept this for many travelers, especially mainland travelers who are used to living pretty faced-paced lives.  Don’t get me wrong, I totally understand this.  Before moving here when we came to visit, it took me several days to slow down, relax, realize my work-world wouldn’t come crashing down without me and that it was actually perfectly okay to turn off my phone and not sneak furtive glances at email.  We’ve had guests actually admit to us that they would feel guilty if they spent a day just lounging around on the lanai – even if they wanted to – because there’s so much pressure – from friends/family/guidebooks/so-called experts, etc. – to squeeze certain things into a visit to Hawaii. 

We had some guests earlier this year finally put a name to the guilt-free experience of relaxation: La dolce far niente.  Translation: the art of doing nothing.  Apparently there’s no shame in this in Italy, and we think this is fantastic and admirable.  So as you plan your visit to the Big Island, make sure you allow for some freedom and rest.  It’s the slow days, after all, that really are the most fun.  Here are our favorite – and our guests’ favorite – non-doing things to do:

• Sunbathing on the lanai
• Reading a book in the shade on the lanai
• Drinking beer and reading in the sun on the lanai
• Floating in the pool
• Sitting in the hot tub
• Spending the afternoon under a tree at Manini Beach reading and snacking
• Eating BBQ from Big Jake’s and sunbathing at Hookena
• Spending the day sunbathing and body-surfing at Kua Bay
• Pub-crawling Kailua (we suggest Kaiso and Bistro Yokohama)
• BBQ’ing on the lanai and watching the sun set
• Having an outdoor massage after a morning at the beach

Hawaii's winding roads

I was walking Painted Church Road again the other morning, admiring the flowering trees and birds, thinking how much I love this walk.  I’ve walked it for years, at all hours of the day, through all seasons, and just don’t tire of it.  It’s another winding farm road and it, like Napo’opo’o, or Manini Beach Road, are remarkably beautiful.

Sometimes we joke that Hawaii is a big pile of rocks in the middle of the ocean.  The thing about the big pile of rocks is that it is outrageously gorgeous.  But make no mistake about it, the nature of these volcanic islands is that they’re mountainous and feature dramatic rock formations, hills, and cliffs.  The older the island, the more dramatic these features are.  This is what makes for the variety of microclimates we have here, as well as the unmatched beauty.  However, this also means that there are plenty of windy mountain roads to navigate.  For some visitors, this is no big deal, for others, it can be a little nerve-wracking.

We have observed that the way you feel about the roads here will be based on what you’re used to.  If you come from a place with broad, flat roads, Hawaii’s winding, coastal roads may be a little nerve-wracking for you to drive.  If you come from a mountainous area, Napo’opo’o, or any of the island’s roads, will not be a big deal.  We’ve had guests lovingly count each bend and turn in our road, pining for a nice sporty little car rather than their rental, they found it so beautiful.  We’ve had others who found its turns exhausting and tiring.  Unfortunately it’s something that you have to get used to being in Hawaii.  With the sheer cliffs and steep mountains come the stunning views, the mind-blowing tropical foliage, and some of the island’s most spectacular spots.

Choice Mart Rocks

Last month our local supermarket, Choice Mart, celebrated it’s tenth anniversary.  Choice Mart is a fantastic little neighborhood market and I can’t imagine South Kona life without it.  Although not a huge market – like Times or KTA or Safeway – it has just about everything a guest could need.  If you’re arriving in Kona midday, don’t be tempted to stop at Safeway or Wallmart on the way down from the airport (Costco is the only exception because of it’s stellar cheap-wine selection and mega-portions of local fish and pre-packed sashimi plates).  Wait for Choice Mart.

Choice Mart is located in South Kona right off the highway, less than one mile south of the turnoff for Napo’opo’o Road (in other words, about fifteen minutes from the Inn).  They always have local produce, including lettuces – commercial and organic, cucumbers, tomatoes (including new local-grown heirloom), potatoes, papayas, bananas, and other exotic fruit, as well as fresh fish and local grass-fed beef.  One of our guests’ consistently favorite meals is local beef and/or fish and sweet potatoes from Choice Mart, grilled simply with salt and oil out on the lanai BBQ for a sunset dinner.  Choice Mart also has wine, beer, and liquor, as well as a small natural-foods section and a deli.  They have poke – raw tuna salad with soy sauce, red pepper, sesame oil – in both the seafood section and the deli, and laulau (meat steamed in taro or ti leaves) in the deli, if you’re in the mood for some local eats.  They also usually have one or two varieties of the local beers (there are two breweries on the island, Mehana in Hilo and Kona on this side).  If you see Kona Brewery’s kona-coffee brew, try it!  Choice Mart also sometimes has tuberose leis (amazing), exotic fruit posters, sunblock, and sand buckets and tools for kids.  Here’s to little, local supermarkets.

 

What to do on a rainy day in Hawaii

Although Kona is the dry side of the island, it still rains here.  That’s why it’s so green and lush and lovely.  Now that it’s spring and the drought appears to have ended, our normal wet-season weather has returned.  For the Kona side of the island, this generally means a soft rain shower in the afternoon or evening, with sun the rest of the time.  Some days we get a little shower in the morning, some days it’s clear and sunny all day long.   The rain, when it does come, is normally soft and warm and quite pleasant.  If it’s raining, try not to be bummed out.  Here are some things to do:

• Get in the water.  Unless it’s windy or the sky is very dark, visibility should still be good.  You’ll get wet anyway, so why not?
• Go to Volcano, it’s usually wet anyway. 
• Go to Pu’uhonua o Honaunua.  It is normally very hot and dry at this park, and it feels good to be down there when it’s a little overcast.  It’s always gorgeous, so it doesn’t matter when you go.
• Go coffee-tasting.  There are lots of farms in our South Kona neighborhood, so drive around and sample a few coffees.
• Go book-browsing: there are two nice bookstores in South Kona.  The Reading Garden is just south of us and has a vast inventory of used books, and there's a small new bookstore tucked into Mango Court next to the health food store just north of us.
• Sit in the hot tub.  There’s nothing like sitting in the hot tub on a drizzly day (especially after an ocean swim or dip in the pool). 
• Have a massage.  It’s pretty fantastic to have a luxurious in-room massage on a cool afternoon, and then go slip into the hot tub to watch the sun set.
• Visit botanical gardens: we have the Ethnobotanical Garden and Paleaku Peace Gardens close by which are both fantastically beautiful swathed in mist.
• Rest on the lanai with a book: because it's never cold, sitting outside on the covered portion of the lanai while watching the rain drops splash onto the surface of the pool is wonderfully pleasant.  From our lanai you have a massive view of both sky and ocean, and it is fascinating to watch a storm system pass overhead.

Cultural Festival June 26 and June 27

Speaking of Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Park, it's time for the summer cultural festival again!  This is an absolute must-see for visitors.  You may be lucky enough to see some hula, hear some chanting, try kava, make an ipu, or sample some Hawaiian food.  Bring water, wear sun block, and have a wonderful time!  Below is the announcement from our friend, Ranger Charlie Hua.  

For more details, check out the park website: http://www.nps.gov/puho/index.htm

Aloha everyone,

Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park will be celebrating its 49^th Anniversary and Annual Cultural Festival on Saturday, June 26^th, and Sunday, June 27^th, from 9:00am to 3:00pm. Our theme for this year is, “Nā Hana Lima o nā Kūpuna”, The Working Hands of Our Elders.  Activities include the Royal court, Hula performances, Hukilau, Canoe Rides, Food Tasting, Hawaiian games for keiki and various Hawaiian crafts. Be sure to pack some sunscreen, water, and hats. There will be no lunch available, so pack snacks or a lunch if necessary. This event is free and park fees are waived for the weekend of this special event.

 

Mahalo,

Hope to see you all there.

Charles T. Hua

 

Places we love: Pu'uhonua O Honaunau and Two Step

The other morning my son’s preschool had their final class at Pu’uhonua o Honaunau in the water by Two Step.  Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, otherwise known as the City of Refuge, is a “must see” tourist destination in our neighborhood.  It is a historically important site, but also a stunningly beautiful national park.

The park is divided into three main areas.  First, there’s the main visitor area.  This is where the main historic sites and rangers are (if you happen to be there when ranger Charlie is, hit him up for historical info because he’s a fantastic local resource).  This is where the Wednesday evening talks take place, as well as the cultural festival in June.  If you continue down the dirt road at the back of the parking area you’ll arrive at the picnic area which runs along the rocky coast, an excellent place to explore tide pools and watch the sun set.  There’s a lovely short trail (the 1871 trail) that you can follow along the shore at the back of the picnic area.  It apparently stretches all the way to Hookena Beach, but only the part within the park is maintained.  The third spot to note is “Two Step” which is on the northern boundary of the park.  So, if you park in the parking lot and walk back out, follow the residential side street down to the water, you’ll get to one of the top two (the Captain Cook monument being the other) snorkeling spots on the Big Island.

The other day when I was there the preschoolers were playing in the shallow, sandy boat-launch area next to Two Step.  The sun was shining brightly and it was very hot, as it often is down there.  Although the park is only four miles south of the Inn, it is noticeably warmer and dryer.  This day, vog was visible up mauka skirting the hill tops, but the sky over the park was clear and blue.  I played in the water with the kids for a little while and cooled off, then was offered a massage by another mother.  We walked over to a shaded area under a large kukui nut tree where she’d set up her table.  As I lay there and relaxed and heard the kids’ laughter in the background and felt the ocean breeze on my bare back, I slipped into the beach-coma I often get at that park.

Pu’uhonua is certainly a special place.  It’s very peaceful, and I am seduced by its beauty each time I go.  The alii (Hawaiian royalty) definitely knew what they were doing in choosing such a fine spot to live.  If I were a visitor here, I would give this park at least one full afternoon.  If you plan on snorkeling at Two Step and exploring the park, you could easily give it more time.  Some visitors prefer Two Step to the Captain Cook monument for snorkeling.  For one, it’s easier to get to – you just drive up and jump in.  Second, because it’s immediately deep, it’s actually a little safer than a place like Manini (which is shallow and sometimes has a bit of a break) for the novice snorkeler.  It has all the same species of reef fish that you see throughout Kealakekua Bay (whether at the monument, Manini, or Keei beach), but arguably more varieties of coral.  There are more turtles in this area, and the local dolphins, eels, rays, young reef sharks, and occasionally an octopus or monk seal also sometimes make an appearance.

Besides getting in the water here, I am a fan of the 1871 trail.  I often used to take my dog along this trail, until he got too old and arthritic to handle the heat and the rocks.  The trail runs right along the shore, up along cliffs part of the way, and across lava.  It’s very quiet, and the views are spectacular.  The water is so consistently clear here that you can look down into it from the cliffs and see the coral.  The shades of water are unendingly varied and striking, and the view of the coastline is dramatic.  It takes only about twenty minutes each way to walk this short portion of the trail.  Footing is somewhat rough.  Walking is easy, running is more of a challenge. 

When I returned home the other day, I carried the warmth of the park with me throughout the rest of my work day.  You have to be careful down there at that beautiful park; you will soak up so much sun and warmth and peace that it may be hard to want to do anything else the rest of the day but lie around the lanai gazing at the ocean and slowly sipping a cool drink…

Where to hear local music

Recently, we had two guests alert us to a fantastic new opportunity to hear local music. The old Hualalai Theater in Kailua Town has been converted into the LEAD community center, which is hosting an ongoing Hawaiian music concert series, Live at the Lead. 
The LEAD Center is easy to find, located right in the heart of Kailua-Kona off the Kuakini Highway. Concerts are every other Friday evening.  To learn more about local artists and see the calendar of events, please check out: www.livehawaiianmusic.com. 
Another source for finding out about local entertainment is the Big Island Weekly: www.bigislandweekly.com.  Hawaii has some fantastic local musicians and we strongly recommend taking the opportunity to see some live music while here on vacation.

The Drought is done, Kona Snow has come

Last year the island suffered a drought that left many trees and plants dead.  Normally there is a wet season that spans late spring to early fall. This manifests differently across the island.  For us here down by the water, this means sunny days followed by a late afternoon or evening shower – perfect irrigation.  Last year we had month after month of dry sunny weather which was great as far as our guests were concerned, but very difficult for island plants and trees.  Each time the sky darkened and seemed to threaten rain residents would get excited and hopeful.  One afternoon while I was in Choice Mart it began to rain and the excitement in the air in the store was palpable.  A buzz of happy voices surrounded me and I overheard “it’s a blessing” echoed excitedly and with relief multiple times.  This is a farming island, after all, and adequate rainfall is critical.
I’ve been taking long walks out Painted Church Road and have been watching the coffee plants.  Many have looked brown and skeletal, with cherries that have gone from ripe-red to shriveled black on the tree.  However, over the last few weeks we have begun to receive soft evening showers, and the plant life has suddenly swung back to life.  So far this spring we have been experiencing a more normal weather pattern, and the land is become green again.  Last week as I walked I smelled the familiar, seductive jasmine-scent of coffee blossoms on the soft air, and was happy to see that the coffee plants are in bloom.  Spring has come, and with it, the soft, warm, nurturing island rains.

Damp, Pretty Hilo

It happened again the other day… We had two different sets of guests arrive within the same couple of days who’d started their trips in Hilo and were aching to see the sun.  This has happened so many times that whenever prospective guests ask us about splitting up their stay between Hilo and Kona, we try to clearly describe the two very different climates and what to expect.  It’s a difficult task.  We don’t want to sound like we’re just trying to sell more nights at our Inn, but we do want to be truthful about the weather patterns.  We’re always trying to help guests prepare and plan.  At the end of the day, we want them to be happy. 
The problem is that the drear and gray that define Hilo’s weather seem to catch many visitors unaware.  Especially if you’ve never been to the Big Island, it can be difficult to envision how its many mirco-climates can actually effect your experience, even when reading through tourist literature.
To get down to the point, Hilo is notoriously damp and overcast.  We’ve heard stories of mildewed clothes in closets and mold infestations and dripping wallpaper, etc.  Each island has a rainy side and a sunny side.  The rain makes for the dramatic waterfalls and beautiful botanical gardens, but it can also be a dreary backdrop for a vacation.  I can’t tell you how many visitors we’ve had who’ve stayed there first, often splitting a one week or two week stay between Hilo and Kona, and are desperate for sun once they arrive in Kona.  We’ve had more than one guest say that they wished they’d limited their time on the other side and spent the bulk of their stay here.
Everyone is different, of course.  We had some guests recently who were from Colorado and found the humidity of Hilo soothing in contrast to their cold, dry home.  For many of our guests who’ve come from Alaska or the Pacific Northwest, Hilo feels to be just another small, weather-beaten town, for other guests, it can feel charming and funky.  Even for guests who do spend their stay on the Kona side, we do suggest at least a day trip around the island to see Hawaii Botanical Gardens, perhaps Akaka and Kahuna and/or Rainbow Falls, and the lovely winding Hamakua Coastline.  If I had one week on the island, I’d spend my time in Kona and do a day trip to the other side.  If I had two weeks, I may spend a day or two on the other side (Hilo, Volcano, or Honokaa/Waipio), and the bulk of my time in Kona.   

Big Island, Big Energy

With the recent tsunami we are reminded once again that we live in an unpredictable place ruled by nature.  We have heard it said more than once that “Pele will test you”, when you live here.  Tsunamis may come, earthquakes can happen, strange storms blow through, the volcano erupts and burps vog, and the ocean can shift from smooth bathtub to churning froth in a day.  Do residents fear these things?  No.  Should visitors?  No.  The magic of this place IS the energy that abounds.
For many visitors, the Big Island is a place of transition.  We’ve had guests come here for many reasons: for honeymoons and anniversaries and baby moons and weddings, but also to relax, be still, and heal.  When you’re standing at the cliffs at Pu’uhonua staring down into the clear water, or floating on your back at Manini at sunset, or simply watching the ocean shift through the day from our lanai, it is easy to once again feel small but significant.  You watch the big sky shift in the volcano or feel the wind rush through at South Point or hear the surf pound relentlessly at Punalu’u and you can’t help but be reminded of your connection to something greater than yourself.  For some, this is an inspirational/life-changing/affirming/peaceful feeling, for others, it’s disturbing.
There seems to be a love/hate relationship with the Big Island.  Some visitors are heart-broken when they have to leave, already planning their next trip.  Others seem disappointed in the island and its vast spaces and big energy and unpredictable weather.  I had a guest admit to me today that her vision of Hawaii had been Waikiki.  She spent time in Honolulu and didn’t like it, and had figured all Hawaii was this way.  For her, the Big Island has been eye-opening and marvelous, but for other guests, it seems to be jarring and overwhelming.  As I mentioned in my entry about guests being set on seeing live lava flowing after looking at all the tourist literature, having a check-list mentality here can lead to disappointment.  The Big Island is not for everyone.  For visitors to the islands who dream of shopping in Waikiki, or relaxing in a controlled environment, then staying at a resort, or remaining in Honolulu is probably the best fit.  For guests who are entranced by the idea of so much wildness, who like the idea of silence and being alone and of exploring off-the-beaten-path, the Big Island will most likely be one of the most remarkable places they’ll ever visit.

Kayaking Kealakekua Bay

One of the most popular South Kona tourist activities is kayaking across Kealakekua Bay to the Captain Cook monument.  The bay is an absolutely beautiful place to snorkel and swim.  It is a marine life sanctuary and boasts some of the clearest water and healthiest reef in Hawaii.  Unfortunately, this pristine environment has started to show signs of wear and destruction due to rampant and uncontrolled use.  

This brings up a question that continuously haunts the State: how to encourage responsible tourism whilst protecting our precious environment.  For years the plan to control kayaking across the bay has been discussed.  Kayaking – like snorkeling - can be damaging to the reef because inexperienced visitors touch/step on/drag boats across the reef, killing the coral.  Finally, the talk has turned into action and as of February 23, 2010, kayaking will only be allowed with a permit in Kealakekua Bay.  This is a wise move by the State and will ensure the reef has time to heal.  Visitors shouldn’t be discouraged by this.  It will be safer and more fun to go as part of a small guided tour, anyway.  This is a historical area and there’s loads of information that would be missed going it alone.  Here are the details:

Permit applications are available online at:

http://hawaiistateparks.org/documents/hsp_kaawaloa_vessel_landing_permit1.pdf

Completed applications can be emailed to: dean.h.takebayashi@hawaii.gov

Faxed to: 808.974.6222

Information line: 808.974.6206

 

Volcano Notes

Since we’re on the subject of Kilauea (January was Volcano Awareness Month), I thought it’d be a good time to share some additional information about visiting Volcanoes National Park.

First, the Park is beautifully laid out for visitors and booking a guided tour to experience it isn’t necessary.  (However, if you happen to be there when a ranger offers a guided walking tour, please take advantage of this.  Our guests that have been lucky enough to happen upon one of these have appreciated the naturalist/geologist-guide’s insight.)  There are two main roads that pass through the Park: Crater Rim Drive (which circles the main crater), and Chain of Craters Road, which runs down to the water.  The tour buses stick to these two main roads, so all the small hikes/walks/viewing spots set just off these main roads are clearly marked and easily accessible. 

However, if you would like to participate in a tour, here are a few that our guests have tried and enjoyed: 

By Boat: www.lavaocean.com

By Bike: www.bikevolcano.com

Private walking/hiking tours: www.hawaii.volcanodiscovery.com, www.bigislandoutfitters.com, www.hawaiiforestandtrail.com

The Park is always open; you can go at any time.  We do suggest, however, (if it is a concern) that visitors check the Park website to determine if any parts of the main roads are closed due to volcanic emissions (this is a safety precaution) before they head out, or to find out specifically where live lava can be viewed (if this is something they want to do).  It is also important to be prepared with the proper attire as the weather in the Park is notoriously changeable.  Please bring good walking/light hiking shoes, and an extra layer in case of rain.  For serious hikes outside the park and/or lava viewing, hiking boots, water, flash lights, and rain gear are necessary. 

Our favorite small hike within the Park itself (there are several extended, serious desert hikes outside of the main park which need to be properly prepared for) is Kilauea Iki (little Kilauea).  The trailhead is located right of Crater Rim Drive.  We like this hike because although it’s short and not difficult (it took us just a couple of hours total) you get to see four distinct volcano environments in one relatively small area.  You pass through one kind of rainforest and exit through another (which means you get to see beautiful plants and hear lovely birdcall).  And as you cross the crater you get to see several different types of lava.  The day we were there it was sunny, hot, and clear and the olivine deposits in the rough lava (a’a) shone like green diamonds in the sun.  Native hawks circled overhead and way down in the crater there was no sound but wind.  It was one of the loveliest short hikes we’ve enjoyed on the island.

Sometimes the question about vog, or volcanic smog, arises.  Sometimes the smog is so thick in Volcano town or in the Park itself that it is visible and accompanied by a strong sulfur smell.  If emissions within a portion of the Park (normally near Halema’uma’u crater where Pele is believed to dwell) are considered too high to be safe (emissions are constantly monitored) then that part of the road is closed temporarily.  If a guest has a preexisting condition that makes them sensitive to respiratory irritants, they should take appropriate precautions (don’t get too close to the plume, carry your inhaler if you’re an asthmatic, etc.).  However, vog should not be a worry for most guests.  I can speak to this personally because I have asthma.  It took two months after moving here for me to see that I had an allergy to the vog, so guests who are here for a regular visit of a week or so will most likely feel nothing.  My symptoms are completely controlled on medication and, although I carry my inhaler with me when we visit the Park, I’ve never had a problem.  As far as vog traveling around the island, it's completely dependent upon the winds.  Trade Winds blowing across the island can push it up to Kailua or even as far north as Oahu.  The Kona Winds blowing down here push it back the other way and keep our little spot down here near the water nice and clear.

Lastly, it must be said that while Volcanoes National Park is a major draw for visitors, if it doesn’t sound interesting to you, that’s okay!  We’ve had some guests who fall in love with the Volcano, some who drive through it in a day and are done, and some who have no interest in it at all.  It’s perfectly fine not to go if you don’t want to.  We’re not big proponents of “check list” traveling.  Just relax and do what you feel like doing – it’s your vacation.

 

Island Expectations

A few weeks ago, I was talking with two guests at breakfast about their visit to Volcanoes National Park the day before.  They’d been in the visitor information center and had overheard one of the rangers patiently describing the layout of the park and all its sights to a visitor.  The visitor suddenly cut the ranger off midstream and yelled, “Just tell me where the goddamn lava is!”.

At first, this sort of outburst seems insane.  We scratch our heads in confusion.  We think they’re kidding, or that we’re all being taped.  Then, when we realize they’re dead-serious, we want to shake these people by the shoulders and say, “how can you be so unhappy in such a beautiful place?”, “what’s the matter with you!” (Or something less polite.)   Unfortunately, this is not the first time I’ve heard – or heard of – such a sentiment.  We once had a guest check in during a rainstorm and get so wildly upset over the weather he drove off, returned to the airport, and caught the next plane home (it was sunny the next day). 

Certainly these visitors returned home feeling let-down by the island.  It seems a total waste – of vacation, of time, of money, of potential for great discovery, experience, and pleasure.  After much thought, I’ve come to realize that this sort of disappointing travel experience has to do with unrealistic expectations.

But it’s not entirely the visitor’s fault.  Tourist information can be misleading.  We recently were walking around downtown Kailua and picked up a tourist magazine and were startled to see not one, not two, but several articles describing dolphin encounters.  So it’s no wonder visitors come here expecting - and sometimes demanding - to see dolphins.  Alongside photos of snorkelers swimming with dolphins were photos of breaching humpbacks and spewing fountains of lava.  Looking at this, it could be hard not to build up a lofty fantasy, and perhaps, a sense of entitlement.  Based on these types of photos, all Hawaii should look like Waikiki, the sun should shine every day, whales should be breaching, dolphins and turtles should approach when snorkeling, the lava should be gushing forth, the ocean should be calm and safe, there shouldn’t be any bugs or rain or vog.  With such high expectations, it would be almost impossible not to be disappointed.  The Big Island is stunningly beautiful, and it is beautiful because it’s filled with wild, unspoiled, inherently unpredictable nature.  Visitors need to keep this in mind.

For instance, lava viewing can be tricky.  The flows shift and change and you have to know specifically where to go to see it.  We always advise guests to check the park website before going if they’re intent on seeing live lava, and talking with a ranger once in the park.  It may not be visible.  Or, you may have to hike out of the park (which was the case most of last year).  If you plan on hiking outside of park boundaries you must be prepared with the appropriate gear.  Also, you don’t want to BE that close to live lava anyway.  All those really gorgeous close-up photos you see of molten lava are taken by professional photographers with huge lenses a significant distance away, while wearing special protective gear (if you got too close you’d be vaporized). 

In short, it’s important to be realistic and understand that Kilauea – like the ocean and the weather – is unpredictable and changeable.  This is not a controlled environment, and it can be hard to accept this coming from an environment far-removed from nature.  But this is where the magic lies.  The Island feels so incredibly alive: trembling, brimming, spilling over with life.  In Volcanoes National Park if you don’t see lava, don’t be disappointed, because live lava is just one piece of what’s going on there.  Look at the tiny ferns and skeletal ohia trees with their vibrant flowers growing – yes, growing! – out of the frozen, barren-seeming lava fields.  Check out the way the lava froze as it cooled, making rivulets and holes and eerie colors.  Look for the olivine deposits that glint in the sun like diamonds, carefully feel the steam rising up from under rocks in Kilauea Iki, listen to the native birdsong in the rainforest, feel the ocean pound up under the rocks down at the bottom of Chain of Craters Road, listen to the lonely wind call across the desert at the petroglyph trail.  How many other places are there where land is being simultaneously destroyed and created each day?  Kilauea is a sacred place and many of our guests feel very moved there, as if they are closer to something greater than themselves temporarily, closer to nature, to God, to something mighty and beautiful, at once ancient and brand-new.  If you’re hurriedly running after a particular goal, chances are you’ll miss this.

We would definitely recommend seeing the Volcano.  Take your time, stop at the information station, see if there will be any ranger-lead nature walks that day that you could join, or any hula or art exhibits going on.  Walk through the Thurston lava tube, walk Devastation Trail, Kilauea Iki, and perhaps the Petroglyph trail.  Slowly drive down Chain of Craters road and stop at the bottom and walk along the shore.  Listen to the pounding waves, maybe walk along the rocks or lie down on them and watch the dramatic sky shift color.  It IS a powerful place.  Take your time, and let it in.